BREAKING: Local legislation could provide specific property tax relief to Dawson County seniors. Here’s the latest.
Dawson County seniors are now one step closer to seeing revamped homestead exemptions with the introduction of two bills to the State House.
Full Story
By allowing ads to appear on this site, you support the local businesses who, in turn, support local journalism.
Tips for saving garden seed
By Clark Beusse
Placeholder Image

During the summer, many gardeners begin to think about saving seed from some of their garden vegetables for planting next year. 


For open pollinated vegetable varieties this practice works; for hybrid varieties, it can be a disaster.   Many gardeners now plant “hybrid” cultivars and should not save the seeds from hybrid plants.


To produce a specific hybrid cultivar, specific inbred lines must be crossbred.  Seed from this planned crossing of inbred lines are genetically unique.  They cannot be successfully reproduced except by repeating the cross using the same inbred lines as parents. 


When flowers from hybrid plants are pollinated, they may fail to produce viable seed.  If they do produce viable seed, the plants resulting from this seed may display an unpredictable assortment of characteristics passed down from ancestral lines. 


They will probably be quite unlike the hybrid parent. 


Therefore, seeds from hybrid cultivars cannot be saved for planting the next year; new seed must be produced each year by crossing the pure parental lines.


Seed from standard open-pollinated cultivars may be saved for subsequent planting and will be true to type provided that cross-pollination with other (different) cultivars is prevented.


If seeds are to be saved, they should be harvested only after reaching maturity.


Seeds enclosed in fleshy fruits such as melons or tomatoes are usually mature when the fruit is fully ripe. 


For summer squash, eggplant and cucumber this would be approximately two to three weeks after they are “table ready.”


Edible seeds such as corn, peas and beans usually need to ripen several weeks beyond the tender eating state.


Mature seed should be separated from the fruit, cob, hull or other associated tissue and dried. 


Seeds from fleshy fruits such as tomatoes, cantaloupes, watermelons, squash, eggplants, and cucumbers should be separated from the fruit, rinsed with water, and allowed to dry on paper towels.  Seeds in pods are usually allowed to dry in the pods.


Drying the seeds to remove excessive moisture and then keeping the seeds dry are the primary factors contributing to successful storage. 


Seeds should be stored at room temperature or cooler.  For small containers of seeds, a refrigerator (about 45 degrees F.) is ideal.  Maximum storage life is achieved by placing seeds in a freezer.  Make certain that seeds are properly dried and in a moisture-proof container before placing them in the freezer.  After removing seeds from the freezer, allow them to reach room temperature before handling them.  Seeds are very fragile when frozen.


If collected, dried, and stored properly most garden seeds will germinate satisfactorily for one to three years.


If a hybrid cultivar is not involved, if genetic purity is maintained by planting only one cultivar or by space or time isolation, and if disease-free seeds are collected when mature and properly dried and stored, seeds may be successfully saved from the garden. 


In other words, saving seeds can and is done by gardeners, but take time to do it right.


For additional information contact the County Extension Office at (706) 265-2442.


Clark Beusse is the Dawson County extension agent.